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How to be more Norwegian

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Norwegian waffles with brown cheese

If you’re feeling inspired to move to Norway, it’s a good idea to find out what the people are like before you up sticks and go.

Bronte Aurell, author of North: How to Live Scandinavian, shares her tips on how to be more Norwegian:

  1. Go for a hike (ut på tur, literally out on tour) every weekend, ideally somewhere hilly.
  2. Always take a matpakke (packed lunch) wherever you go.
  3. Every weekend and holiday, go to a hytte (cabin). Any cabin. A garden shed can be used as a replacement. This is called hyttetur (cabin tour).
  4. Avoid looking directly at your fellow citizens in all urban areas, including pavements, public transport and shops. But remember to say ‘Hei hei’ (hello) to everyone when hiking.
  5. Every summer, go to Syden (the south) for two weeks’ vacation. Southern Scandinavian places do not count – it has to be south of the German border.
  6. Eat warm waffles with brown goat’s cheese at least once a week. When you get sick of waffles, eat a Grandiosa frozen pizza or a hotdog wrapped in a potato pancake.
    Lofoten in Norway
  7. When having a conversation about anything, make sure to say ‘ikke sant’ a lot. Depending on your intonation, ikke sant can mean a range of different things, mostly on a spectrum of ‘Yes, I agree wholeheartedly’ – including, but not limited to:
    • Ikke sant = yes, I agree
    • Ikke sant? = do you agree?
    • Ikke Sant! = YES
    • Ikke SANT? = you’re kidding
    • Ikke sant = yes, yes
    • Ikke sant?! = I hear ya
  8. Celebrate your flag every day of the year but especially on 17 May, Norway’s national day. On this day, purchase seven more flags for your collection.
  9. Norwegians are born with skis on their feet. Uncomfortable for the mothers, but useful once they learn to stand up and navigate down snow-covered mountains. If you can’t ski, don’t move to Norway.
  10. Sweden will never be better than Norway at anything. Apart from the price of everything (you shall never speak of this openly). Know that if a Swede beats a Norwegian at skiing it is always because of smørekrise (the way the skis are prepped) literally, ‘a crisis of lubrication’. It has nothing to do with the athletes themselves.
  11. Own at least one allværsjakke (all-weather jacket). A plus point if it is brightly coloured.

Taken from North by Bronte Aurell, £20 Aurum Press. Photo credits: Anna Jacobsen and Yuriy Garnaev on Unsplash


How to wear a Norwegian jumper

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norwegian-jumper-illustration3

If you’re going to embrace the Scandinavian way of life then you need to learn how to treat your Norwegian jumper, says Bronte Aurell.

When people think of Scandinavian jumpers they are mostly thinking of the Norwegian lusekofte, literally meaning ‘lice jumper’.

Lice (lus) refers to the tiny pattern in the knit – ‘little lice’, if you will. These jumpers are also known as Setesdalgenser (Setesdal sweaters), from the Setesdal valley where it originated over a century ago as traditional farmers’ formal wear.

Other variations refer to the Marius sweaters – probably a more well-known design featuring bands of pattern from midway up the sweater to the neckline, from the 1950s.

Iceland has their own distinct patterns on their jumpers as do those from the Faroe Islands. Any reference to Danes wearing these types of jumpers is purely for fashion – it is simply not cold enough in Denmark to warrant them. Swedes also don’t tend to wear them and most attempts should not be taken too seriously.

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The ‘Sarah Lund’ jumper

A few years ago, the concept of Nordic jumpers became high fashion across the world. This was largely due to a character in a Danish TV series called The Killing (Forbrydelsen), where the main detective only ever wore woolly jumpers of a particular pattern as she went about her business, solving murders in the unusually dimly-lit Copenhagen streets. The character’s name was Sarah Lund and many now refer to Nordic jumpers as ‘Sarah Lund’ jumpers.

Her sweater was actually made by the Faroese fashion house Gudrun & Gudrun. Lambswool is thick. That real, thick, coarse, untreated wool really acts as a barrier to the outside elements. If it keeps sheep warm in -20˚C (-4˚F), it’s going to keep you warm, too.

Norwegian jumper illustration

How to care for a woollen jumper

Sheep have the added advantage of a thick layer between their wool and skin – and you do not, so unless you wear a base layer, you will be itching all over. The proper jumpers are all handknitted and it can take around 80–90 hours to complete one. Therefore, understandably, they are not cheap.

Your Norwegian jumper, if made from untreated lambswool, doesn’t need washing. It just needs to be dug down into the snow for a while. If you live in a place with a lack of snow like, say, Florida, use your freezer. Move the peas and leave it in there for 24 hours to kill all bacteria.

If you absolutely must wash it, do so by hand in cool water and dry by rolling flat in a towel. Change the towel as often as needed. Never, ever hang the jumper up and never machine wash – and, for the love of Norway, don’t even parade it past the tumble dryer.

Taken from North by Bronte Aurell, £20 Aurum Press.

Jumper illustration by Lucy Panes.

The Norwegian love of the cabin

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Norwegian cabin in the snow

At the centre of all Norwegian people’s lives lies the hytte or cabin, says Bronte Aurell, author of North: How to Live Scandinavian.

A hytte is a cabin and these are little places Norwegians hike to or use as a base to hike from, weekends and holidays.

A hytte is usually made of wood, is often painted grey or red and is always located in the middle of nowhere (i.e. most of Norway). The nearest shop is usually at least an hour away.

Hytter are always top places in the Norwegian soul for feeling very koselig (‘cosy’) and hyggelig. Certain things characterise most Norwegian hytter: Inside, the walls are wood panelling, the furniture is wood, the floor is wooden and any utensils that can be are made from wood, giving it the feeling of, well, nature.

A traditional hytte will most likely have old copper pans on the walls, some skis, and maybe some stuffed animals.

Whatever you eat at the hytte, you can be guaranteed it will be served on mismatched crockery – all the stuff someone’s mum didn’t feel quite worked at home.

Hytter are usually small places, ranging from pretty up to date to rather basic – this largely depends on where your hytte is located. You may be in a very remote area, so chances are you won’t have access to certain facilities. Some lack running water (this comes from the nearby fjord, well or stream, even if you have to hack through the ice to get to it), some only lack hot water.

Some have only wood fires and take approximately 16 hours to warm up when you arrive (then it’s like a sauna for the rest of your stay).

The toilet is known as utedo and is sometimes located outside. It has no lights and, when you’re done, you need to add woodchips to your business to ensure you leave it fresh. Of course, some newer hytter have toilets and heating and all things modern. Peeing outdoors is a natural part of hytte life and you soon get used to it. At one, with nature…

 

A fjord and mountains in Alesund, Norway

How to enjoy your Norwegian cabin

Because of the location of most cottages in the wild, summer is the least popular time because that is when mosquitoes take over and make life unbearable. Peak hytte times are Christmas and Easter (when a stay can be combined with skiing, Norway’s favourite sport). Most weekends in ski weather will be spent at the hytte – even if the cabin is a six-hour drive from your home.

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There is plenty to do at the cabin. If you own it, it is a perfect time to do repairs and make things cosier for future trips. When you are not skiing, you read crime novels, play cards. The Yatzee dice game is very popular, as is Ludo. Your iPad won’t have 4G and there is no Wi-Fi or TV so people end up playing games. The only way to break up the fun is to eat something, usually waffles with brown cheese.

Another way to enjoy your hytte time is sitting outside in the sun to get your face tan going (every Norwegian knows to wear light blue tops for maximum tan enhancement). Any evidence that you have maximised outdoor time means bonus points.

 

Norwegian woman

How to prepare for your Norwegian cabin stay

While at the hytte, you must also remember to wear the hytte uniform: stillongs. This is thermal layers of clothing. Wool underpants, wool leggings, wool socks, wool tops. Flannel shirts. Top it with a real Norwegian jumper. Comfort is key, so leave the fancy clothes at home.

Because of the lack of shops, deciding what food to bring for your hytte break is an art form. When shops in the vicinity are going to be closed for several days over Christmas and Easter, Norwegians fill up the car with ingredients for all eventualities. There’s enough food to keep you safe should you become snowed in or the car breaks down or if someone declares war on Sweden.

Despite having the car loaded with food, it is likely that at least once during your time there you will end up eating stuff from tins and that, at least once, you will have spaghetti with ketchup. You will also eat more waffles than you ever planned.

In your entire life. If you don’t have your own cabin and you fancy a hiking holiday in Norway, you can rent cabins or book into some along your route. Most of the cabins can’t be pre-booked, though, and nobody is turned away, so it can get all-cosy at times, trying to fit parties in for the night.

For this reason, the usual Norwegian rule of not talking to strangers does not apply.

 

Norwegian cabin in Lofoten

How to book a Norwegian cabin stay

In summer, Norwegians love to retreat to a cabin in the mountains or fjords when they want to escape the rush of city life. Some have running water, some not. They don’t have WiFi – the idea is to unplug, embrace the wild and connect with nature.

Many Norwegians own their cabins but for those who don’t, the Norwegian Trekking Associate (DNT) manages over 500 cabins scattered along routes all over the mountain ranges and forests which operate on a ‘take something and leave something’ system. So you use the waffle batter, but you leave tea instead.

The system relies heavily on trust – visitors sign their names in the guest book so that they can be charged for their stay afterwards. Find out more at english.dnt.no.

Taken from North by Bronte Aurell, £20 Aurum Press. Photo credits: Anna Jacobsen and Andreea Chidu, Martin Reisch and Christiann Koepke on Unsplash

Spotted by locals – where to eat in London, Rome, Paris and New York

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Eiffel Tower, Paris

When we’re travelling, we inevitably end up eating in some over-priced tourist restaurant. Eating food that’s okay, but not inspiring.

There’s always the sneaking suspicion that the locals have their own secret restaurants and cafes – the places where you get the best local food and the best atmosphere.

Well, we don’t want you to feel like you’re missing out so we’ve found a few fantastic haunts to visit when you’re in London, Rome, Paris and New York – all recommended by the people who live there. Bon appétit!

 

Westminster Bridge in London

Where locals eat in London

Ceremony

Ceremony in Tufnell Park was spotted by Peter Clayburn, who says: “If the idea of a vegetarian restaurant is enough to see you recoil in horror and send you sprinting off towards the nearest steakhouse, Ceremony could be the place to change your mind.”

Opened in September 2017, menu highlights include deliciously moreish sweet potato pancakes and green omelettes. There’s a great cocktail menu and, as you’d expect, vegans are well catered for.

LOVENpresents – Hidden Pizza

You’ll feel like a detective tracking down this secret venue. LOVENpresents – Hidden Pizza is tucked away on an industrial estate – a discreet sign by the door is the only clue that the restaurant is here.

Local spotter Kamla Pillay says tracking it down is worth the effort: “The pizzas are Neapolitan-style and cooked to perfection, and come with a selection with both traditional and more experimental toppings made with good quality Italian ingredients.”

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Making pizza in Rome

Where locals eat in Rome

L’Ombralonga

L’Ombralonga on Via delle Palme is the place to go for Venetian-style spritz and surprisingly affordable aperitif.

Spotter Matteo Mueller-Thies says: “For a ridiculous €2.50, they will make you drown in a sea of delicious cold cuts and cheese (obviously there’s a vegetarian sea) in quantities two fully grown humans are going to struggle to finish.”

This spot is, unsurprisingly, extremely popular. Get there early to bag your table.

Il Sorpasso

Chic restaurant Il Sorpasso, a stone’s throw from bustling St Peter’s Square, is “refreshingly non-touristy” according to Livia Hengel.

There are a good selection of veggie options on offer here: “From fettuccine made of farro with pumpkin, rosemary and pecorino to ravioli stuffed with cheese and pepper in a saffron sauce, everything is delicious, comforting and made with high-quality ingredients.”

Livia rates it as “one of the best hidden gems in Rome”.

New York skyline

Where locals eat in New York

Sylvia’s

If you’re looking for an easy brunch in Harlem, try Sylvia’s restaurant for a tasty soulfood feast.

Craig Nelson has tried a range of dishes on the menu, from catfish to smothered pork chops and recommends turning up for the Gospel brunch early on Sunday mornings. “I love strolling through Harlem before the rest of the city wakes up,” he says.

Buttermilk Channel

Buttermilk Channel in Brooklyn serves consistently delicious food with a seasonal vibe.

The dining experience is best described as New American, with fabulous dishes such as chilled asparagus soup and Doug’s pecan pie sundae.

Mains come in at around $20-28, but you can bring your own wine to keep costs down.

 

A street in Montmartre, Paris

Where locals eat in Paris

Le Grand Breguet

Paul Wright describes Le Grand Breguet as “healthier eating with a vibe!” The restaurant on Rue Breguet offers a basic menu of either a protein or a vegan dish.

Its eclectic interior design is also a major draw for diners, with stripped-back concrete floors and exposed pipes on the ceiling.

Not to be confused with Bar Le Breguet.

The Printemps Terrace

The laidback, spacious terrace cafe near Les Grands Magazins shopping area offers stunning views across Paris.

It’s a little out of the way but, once you’ve navigated your way up nine escalators above the Printemps warehouse, it’s well worth the effort.

Local resident Julia Fortuin says that you’ll need to buy something to enjoy the view, but “buying an espresso for €2 will do”.

If you’ve enjoyed these tips, you can find more local gems on spottedbylocals.com.

Photos by Chris Karidis, jonathan riley, Jamie Goodwin, JOHN TOWNER and Hugo Sousa on Unsplash





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